The most conspicuous building in Murshidabad is the Hazarduari Palace built by Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah (হুমায়ুন জাঁ), which stands on the bank of the Bhagirathi. It was designed and built under the supervision of Colonel Duncan McLeod of the Bengal Corps of Engineers (father of Sir Donald McLeod); the foundation stone was laid in 9^th August 1829, and the building was completed in 1837. The Palace itself is called the Bara Kothi or Hazarduari, i.e. the house with a thousand doors, and the enclosure within which it is situated is known as the Nizamat Kila. This contains, in addition to the Palace, the Imambara, the Madina Mosque, a Clock Tower, three mosques and residential and other quarters. It is entered by several large gates bearing different names, such as Dakshin Darwaza, Chawk and Imambara. The main gates have Naubat Khanas or musicians galleries over them, and the entrances are large and high enough for an elephant to pass with a howdah on its back.

The Palace is a three storied building, rectangular on plan (424 feet Long and 200 feet broad and 80 feet high). The building is an excellent example of Indo-European architecture, strongly reminiscent of Italian style, as seen in its huge flight of stairs in front (perhaps the largest in India), in the Colossal pillars and also in the facet of the building. 37 steps of stone, the lowermost one of which is 108 feet long, lead up to the upper portico; 7 stately pillars, the perimeter of each of which, at the base is 18 feet, support the pediment, in the tympanum of which is the Nawabi Coat of Arms and Unicorn. On either side, at the foot of the grand staircase, is a masonry lion in sitting posture, at the back of which are stone slabs embedded in the walls of the pedestals for tripple lamp posts. The Palace was used for holding the "Durbar" or meetings and other official work of the Nawabs as also for the residents of the high ranking British Officials. It now houses a Museum displaying the collection of Nawabs consisting of extremely rich collection of antiquarian remains which include arms and weapons, paintings of Dutch, Flemish, French, English and Italian artists, bronze and marble statues, costumes and jewelry, palanquins and carriages, objects of gold, silver and ivory besides beautiful, ceramic vases, wooden furniture's, cut-glass chandeliers belonging mostly to the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

The propinquity of the Palace to the bank of the scouring Bhagirathi, from the edge of which it is within 40 feet, has been unsafe by some as an act of engineering indiscretion. But the foundation walls, laid so deep, are supposed to afford sufficient protection.

Inaugural Incident

The concrete bed for laying the foundation of the Palace was dug so deep that Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah (হুমায়ুন জাঁ) in descending to it, had to step down a ladder and the close atmosphere, consequent on the depth of the excavation and the large concourse of people that, like a thick wall, stood surrounding it, were responsible for an awkward incident, for His Highness fainted away and had to be helped up, when he had laid foundation stone and declared it to have been well and truly laid.

The Nizamat Kila or Fort Area : nizamat-fort.pdf
References :

• Bengal District Gazetteers, Murshidabad - By L.S.S. O'Malley (1914)
• A history of Murshidabad District (Bengal) With Biographies Of Some Of Its Noted Families (1902) - By John Henry Tull

[1] HAZARDUARI PALACE MUSEUM
Assistant Superintending Archaeologist PH : 91 (03482) 271605
Address of ASI Kolkata :
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA
Kolkata Circle
CGO Complex (4^th floor), Block-DF, Sector-1, Saltlake, Kolkata-700 064
TEL : 91 (033) 23344389, 91 (033) 23343775, FAX : 91 (033) 23344389 EMAIL:asical@vsnl.net

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Hazarduari Palace Museum

Ever since taking over of the museum by the Archaeological Survey of India in 1985 from the Government of West Bengal continuous effort has been made to display the exhibits in a grand scale matching with any large period museum of the country and even abroad. At present the exhibits are displayed in 20 galleries of the museum spread over sprawling halls and rooms and wide corridors.

Download Gallery Plan of Hazarduari Palace Museum : museum-galleries.pdf

Entrance Porch

On both sides of the walled space are displayed a carriage, one of which is a camel carriage and the other a Victorian carriage. These were used by the Nawabs.

The Lobby

In the lobby are displayed some photographs of the monuments at Murshidabad and other parts of Bengal. Besides, photographs of the important exhibits in the Hazarduari Palace Museum and Cooch Bihar Palace museum are also displayed. Towards its east is the landing area of a staircase where some curious exhibits are displayed; one of them is a huge stuffed crocodile another an unusually thick piece of bamboo. Entrance towards the main galleries is obtained from here as orientation of the museum galleries has been made in such a manner that after viewing the armouries in the ground floor visitors to the first floor galleries.
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Gallery No. 1 & 2 (Armoury Wing A & B)

Rich in historical contents and technical skills, the arms and weapons are shown here in a variety ranging from bow and arrow; swords and shields; lances and spears; knives and daggers; guns and rifles; pistols and revolvers, to wheels and cannons. They are often found inscribed with the verses from the holy Koran and noted for their delicate carvings and exquisite workmanship. Mention may be made of a metal helmet and a rhino-shield, which are of great value for their rich calligraphy and royal appendage. The pointed "Jamadhara" and an unique bifurcated sword called "Zulfikar" are normally associated with Mir Qasim (মীরকাশেম). The swords are varied because of their usage. Among the arms displayed the few famous are Sword of Alivardi Khan and Multi barreled rifle, Sword of Siraj-ud-Daulla (সিরাজ-উদ-দৌল্লা) .. etc. The Dagger by which Muhammad-i-Beg killed Siraj-ud-Daulla can also be seen here. Remarkable of all is a cannon, which was used by Mirmadan in the Battle of Plassey (পলাশী) in 1757 AD.

The guns are mostly (1) toradar or match locked, of which there are two kinds, namely Hindi or Indian and Roomi or Turkish; and (2) flint lock, made in Europe and Mongyer in the 16^th century and later. The Carabines and Sherbacha are mostly of that period. The pistols, which are match lock, flint lock and percussion cap, are both Indian and European and include among them many presented to the Nawabs by The East India Company. The Swords are of all kinds and periods and countries. Damase swords made at Khorasan by Artizans from Damascus in Timur's time; Ispahani swords manufactured by Asadulla, the great sword maker of the time of Shah Abbas, King of Persia (1571 - 1629 AD), many of which were made for him; Daggers of every kind, namely Afghanistan Chhoras, Peshkubz (Persian), Koroli (Turkish), Qama and Khagar (Arabic); Bhoojalis (Indian); Shields, Bows and Arrows; Mohalas or iron pieces for tusks of fighting elephants. Tabrs and Zafer Takias and other varieties make up a collection. Most of the arms in the Palace Armoury are those actually used in battle by Nazims, their generals, Omras and men. Many of these saw Plassey, Giria, Udaynala etc.. The Swords in the Armoury may be classified as following ::

1	Khorasani	8	Dhope	15	Dumtamacha
2	Ispahani	9	Tega Burdwani	16	Saif
3	Magrabi	10	Nagdaman	17	Mahratti
4	Jenoobi	11	Salawa	18	Lakai
5	Alamani	12	Neemcha	19	Sowsanpatta
6	Dakhni	13	Katti	20	Langercut
7	Scinde	14	Soroi	21	Khanda

On exit from the gallery on the staircase landing area the most interesting exhibit is a damaged Dutch Cannon presented to Nawab Alivardi Khan by the Dutch Government in 1745. It is generally known as the cannon of Mir Madan, a trusted lieutenant of Siraj-ud-Daulla who is said to have died in the battle of Plassey due to the bursting of a cannon. The magic mirrors on the corners provide amusement to the visitors. The walls of the staircase and the upper floor landing contain interesting paintings, mention may be made of 'Fallstaff' by Marchatti.
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Gallery No. 3 (Halls of Royal Exhibits)

Noted for the magnificent display of the masterpieces of paintings, silver and ivory objects, metal and marble Statues this gallery throws a welcome light of the contemporary socio-religious, political and cultural life of the people. This gallery is divided in three halls.

The first part known as the Southeast Royal Exhibits Hall displaying some huge oil paintings of the Nawabs, one of which is of Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah (1824-1838 AD) by Hutchinson and another of Nawab Nazim Feradun Jah (ফেরাদুন জাঁ) (1838-1881 AD) by B. Hudson. One of the prized possessions of this museum is anivory palanquin used by Zebunissa daughter of Aurangzeb (1658 - 1707 AD).

The next part termed as the Central Royal Exhibits also displays a silver Kamal Howdah of Sarfaraz Khan (1739 - 1740 AD), an ivory Tanjam (Sedan Chair) of Shah Jahan (1627 - 1657 AD). Another sedan chair used by Nawab Hassan Ali Mirza (হাসান আলি) (1881-1906 AD) is also displayed. The third part of this gallery also reckoned as South-West Royal Exhibits Hall has in its centre an exquisite ivory palanquin like seat for use on elephant back (Jhapanak or ladies palanquin). But the most splendid thing on display is a huge oil painting captioned 'Burial of Sir John Moore' by Marshall. The British General slain in the battle of Corunna at Spain fought between the English and the French was buried unceremoniously. The scene has been captured by the master artist in a superb manner. The incident has found place in a poem of Charles Wolfe titled 'The Burial of Sir John Moore'. The miniature ivories displayed in the gallery retain a traditional art form and carved in lapidaric intricacy to delineate the details of Hindu pantheons while, the marble statues speak of contemporary European art in the soft and sensitive contours.
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Gallery No. 4 (Landscape Gallery)

The theme of this Gallery is primarily landscape paintings in the palace collection. In this gallery are displayed some remarkable paintings which include the forceful composition of a "Scotch Warrior" by G.Campbell, "Hunting Party" by William Beechey, "The Ocean" by M.B. Pratt, "Sea view" by Schotel, "On the Bosphorus" by D. Temper and the famous "Scene of thirty years war" by Jorgenson. The bronze statues on the marble table top represent the heroic gestures of some bold knights including the sculptures of Nelson and Napoleon Bonaparte and a pair of miniature replicas of the statue of liberty. go top

Gallery No. 5 (British Portrait Gallery)

This Gallery exhibits some master pieces of British portraits which include the busts of the Governor Generals of Bengal like Lord Cornwallis (AD 1786-93 and again in 1805), Lord William Bentinck (AD 1828-35) and Baron Auckland and the agents of the East India Company at Murshidabad like Major A. Thompson, Lieutenant Colonel Mackenzie, Major G.H. Macgregor (all by Hudson) and Mr. Caulifield (by Hutchinson). A fascinating array of porcelain vases in various shapes and sizes displayed upon marble table tops provide a rich flavour of European Ceramic art both in colour and variety.
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Gallery No. 6 (Nawab Nazim Portrait Gallery)

Paintings portraying the Murshidabad Nawabs are displayed here in chronological order starting from Murshid Quli Khan (1706-1727 AD) and ending with Waresh Ali Mirza (1959-1969 AD). Brass objects like spouted water pot, ornamental flower vase and wine jar etc. are also on display.
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Gallery No. 7 (Durbar Hall)

Being the centre of attraction in the entire palace Durbar Hall is conspicuous by its circular plan and vaulted roof with four doors at the cardinal points. A very large crystal Chandelier of exquisite workmanship is suspended in the centre to illuminate the entire hall with ninety six lamps. The grandeur of the hall is projected further by a royal silver throne with its "Chattri" and a Durbari Hookah in front. The marble platform shows the delicacy of intricate lattice work and guilded patterns. Two unique marble candle stands in this hall stand as witnesses of exquisite workmanship of the bygone era. go top

Gallery No. 8 (Committee Room)

The left side room of the Durbar hall is the committee room which also displays some valuable objects. On its southern side the silver throne of Nawab Nazim Feradun Jah (ফেরাদুন জাঁ) (1838-1881 AD) is placed on a silver Chouki (stool). On its back at top a large oil painting showing Feradun Jah in the company of high administrative personnel can be seen. The beautifully decoratied ivory sofa is noteworthy. Some oil paintings of the Nawabs are also displayed here.
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Gallery No. 9 (Billiard Room)

The Billiard Room deserves the attention for the magnificent display of two Billiard tables with their accessories and different sitting arrangements besides the two marble chess boards in pietra-dura and the four remarkable paintings. These paintings depict the portrait of "Colonel Duncan McLeod" (architect of this palace) By Hutchinson, "Marquis of Spinola" By Vandyke (1599 - 1641 AD), "The Rival" By Snyders Frans (1579 - 1657 AD) and a superb composition of "French Landscape" By Courbet.
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Gallery No. 10 (Portrait gallery of Dewans & Nazirs)

The display of this gallery is based on paintings, porcelain vase, glass vase, wooden furniture, chandelier etc. Dewans were the ministers of the Nawabs and collectors of revenue, they used to run the day to day administration of the Nizamat affairs. Among them portraits of Jankidas Pandey, Raja Pransanna Narayan Dev by Hudson, Raja Gangadhar Roy are on display along with the portraits of the Nazirs like Amman Ali Khan, Basant Ali Khan and Darwali Khan. An interesting portrait of "Bukshoo Abdar Ghetton" a Glutton (One who over-indulges in and over-consumes food, drink, or intoxicants to the point of waste) can be seen on the western wall of this gallery.
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Gallery No. 11 (Prince Portrait gallery)

From a family album of the Nawab's these galleries exhibits some remarkable paintings to speak of their infancy and various other moods. These includes the portraits of Mir Jafar মীরজাফর (1757-60 AD and 1763-65 AD) and his son Miran, Nawab Hassan Ali Mirza হাসান আলি (1881-1906 AD) and Hussain Ali Mirza, together, or accompanied by their sister Wahid-un-nisa Begum by Hudson and Wasef Ali Mirza. The art objects on the side tables comprise porcelain flower vases, cut-glass melon, porcelain bear and the marble statue of a deer and metal horses. go top

Gallery No. 12 (Western Drawing Room)

The western drawing room is vibrant with grandeur of western carpet, different sitting arrangements, luxurious sofas, decorative lamps, Ceramics, various clock items including the display of a piano and a barometer besides the large canvas painting of King William IV, Lord Wellesly, Sir Herber Moddok and a small super composition of "Katrine" by Wolic.
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Gallery No. 13 (Archive Gallery)

This gallery of archieval treasure selected from the library and the record room of Hazarduari Palace, Murshidabad, is a spectrum of the rule of Nawabs of Murshidabad in Bengal, Bihar and Orissa, of the Mughal empire during the last few centuries. The Nawabs of Murshidabad apart from being rulers and governors of these provinces were indeed connoisseur of art and patron of literature and culture. The exhibits displayed in this gallery have been meticulously selected from a huge collection in such a way that it should provide a picture of the life at the time of "Nizamat" This gallery contains among its exhibits, valuable manuscripts of Persian and Arabic language varying their subject and scope wiz. religion, medicine, history and poetry. The document section contains very rare and important farmans (Royal Orders), proclamations, indentures, formal letters, official correspondence etc. in Persian being the official language of the Mughal emperors and Nawabs, and come of them in English because of the inception of European Companies and British influence in India. These documents also speak of the administrative power of the Nawabs conferred upon them by Mughals, their skill to govern the affairs of Bengal, Bihar and Orissa, their relations with the Companies and British administration, their gifts to English friends and an exchange of their greeting and sorrow, their agreements with British powers regarding administration and financial matters and many more aspects of the Nizamat. The calligraphy throwing light on the aesthetic sense of the Nawabs. The royal farman of Mughal emperor Shah Alam II dated AH 1179 (1765 AD), Khat-i-Taziyat (Condolence letter) by Lord Minto on the death of Nawa's grand mother Babbu Begum dated AH 1224 (1809 AD), Private letter of Lord Hastings to Nawab Mubarak Ali Khan date 1787-1788 AD are displayed here.
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Gallery No. 14 & 15 (Periodical Gallery I & II)

These two galleries have been organized for periodical display of the significant objects from a wider range of reserve collections of this museum. Between the two, one exhibits the Ornamental Silver dressing table of exquisite workmanship depicting the relief figure of contemporary socio religious life. Apart from the floral and geometric motifs elegant carvings of celestial numphs and angels are also depicted. A mirror is fitted at the centre surmounted by the royal insignia. This is a masterpiece of silver carving.

The paintings on the walls of the room include 'Windsor Castle' by an English Painter, 'Italian Landscape' by an Italian artist, 'Winter scene in Holland' painted on paper by Vermalin etc. While the other, a silver dinning table containing a series of ornamental trays with flowers and candle stands on it, plates and cutlery and decorative copper chandelier in the form of creepers at the corners. The dinner plates on display have the royal insignia embossed on them. Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah's (হুমায়ুন জাঁ) collection of rare dining plates are notable. The green dining plates were designed to shatter in case poisoned food was served. Some oil paintings like the continental landscape and water colour paintings like lady dressing her hair, a lady in front of a door, a lady serving wine etc. are also displayed on the walls.
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Gallery No. 16 (Central Landing or Main Hall)

Some very important oil paintings associated with the main personalities of the palace are displayed here along with others. A huge painting of Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah shows him holding durbar with courtiers and Colonel Duncan McLeod, the architect of the Palace presinting the plan of the palace to the Nawab. Another historically important oil painting by J.N. Roy represents Robert Clive receiving Dewani of Bengal from Shah Allam II in 1765. Oil paintings of a group of Nawabs of Oudh, Katra Mosque by Girija Shankar, Id-procession in front of Chowk Masjid by J.N. Roy are also displayed. AT the centre of the gallery the Silver Trowel with ivory handle used by Nawab Humayun Jah for laying foundation of the Palace is exhibited.
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Gallery No. 17 (North-East Landing first floor)

A plethora of objects are displayed in this gallery among which some oil paintings like 'Flora' after Titan deserve special mention. A beautiful marble statue of a standing European lady is remarkable
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Gallery No. 18 (North-West Landing first floor)

Some oil paintings like 'Swiss Landscape' by Malleure, 'City of Venice', 'Wind Mill on a hillock' etc. are displayed along with some stone objects, mirrors and chandelier.
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Gallery No. 19 (Painting Gallery)

This gallery has been exclusively organized for display of some of the beautiful paintings in the collection of the Palace. Those deserving mention include "Holy Family" by Francesco Renaldi, an enchanting and lively presentation of 'Baccus and Ariadne' which shows the Greek god of wine trying to induce Greek deity Ariadne, 'Cavaliers of Venice' by Marchatti, 'The Marquis of Spinola' by Van Dyke, Cleopetra, Cinderella by T Young, Colonel Duncan McLeod by Hutchinson etc. A needle work on carpet portraying seated Queen Victoria along with two babies and a litho print of Humayun Manzil (another palace of Humayun Jah) are also interesting.

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Gallery No. 20 (Religious objects Gallery)

Unique in its concept this gallery has been organised with the objective to display mainly the objects used during various religious observances of the Nawabs of Murshidabad. Most of the displayed objects were used in the religious purposes of Muharram and Id festival and some were household objects. Important objects on display include a silver helmet (1254 AH) of Nawab Nazim Feradun Jah (ফেরাদুন জাঁ) (1838-1881 AD), silver waist belt and silver tea set of Nawab Wasef Ali Mirza (1906-1959 AD), decorated religious banner with Arabic inscription of Quran, pankha with silver handle of Lutf-un-nisa Begum, Haideri-alam with the Arabic inscription 'Bismilla', five zamana-alams in silver of the period of Nawab Feradun Jah, inscribed silver Panja, silver Chob (lion mask) and two numbers zamana-alams in silver belonging to the period of Nawab Humayun Jah.
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Hazarduari Palace Library

The Library contains a large and varied Collection of Books and most rare and valuable oriental manuscripts. Visitors are not allowed to enter the Library, except special permissions. Graphical embellishments of various kinds, brilliantly colored inks, gold, enamel, highly finished ornamental and floral designs, of every conceivable fanciful and elegant description, make the Korans and other books gorgeous and artistically beautiful. Some mere perfections of the Calligraphers art. The collection of Korans in this library is unique in India. The total number of volumes in the Palace Library, Arabic, Persian, Urdu, English etc. is considerable. The following are only a few specimens :